How To Shorten A Sewing Pattern
A Step By Step Tutorial
If you’re making your own clothes, the chance is that you’re keen to create something that fits you perfectly. But if you’re tall, long in the body, or perhaps long-legged the chances are you'll need to adjust the length of a sewing pattern.
Or for a step-by step tutorial on how to lengthen a sewing pattern click here.
So how do you know if you need to alter the length of a pattern?
Start by taking your measurements and then compare them with the size chart. Pay close attention to how your measurements align with the longitudinal measurements provided on the chart, such as nape to waist, hip depth, waist to knee length, and arm length.
Then look at the finished garment measurements, typically found on the back of the pattern envelope or within the sewing instructions. Focus on measurements like garment length, sleeve length, skirt length, trouser length, and so on.
Once you've noted the differences between your measurements and the desired finished measurements, decide how much you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern for a perfect fit.
If the pattern is straight and boxy you can add length to the hem of the pattern:
But if your garment is fitted or flared, just adding length to the hem will change the hem width - see below.
Shortening just at the hem of a tapered sleeve makes the wrist wider.
Shortening just to the hem of an A-line skirt makes the flare at the hem narrower.
There is another way! You can cut along the “Shorten And Lengthen Lines” and spread the amount you need to subtract. This way the hem width stays the same. Most sewing patterns have adjustment lines for length marked on them.
You’ll find a step-by-step tutorial for this method below.
Where are “Shorten And Lengthen” lines?
You’ll find “Shorten And Lengthen” lines:
On a bodice above the waistline and below the bust dart, and through any waist darts.
On a skirt below the hip line (and avoiding any pocket details).
Long skirts will have two lines; above and below the knee, so that the side seam blends evenly and the hem width says the same.
Fitted sleeves will have lengthen or shorten lines below the armscye and above the elbow, and between the elbow and the wrist
Trousers: below the waist darts and above the crotch line; and between the crotch and the knee line.
Tip - It’s best to alter the length of the pattern first before you do any other alterations.
To Shorten Pattern Pieces
You will need:
A tape measure.
A pen or pencil.
The pattern envelope or instructions for the design with the size chart on it and also the finished garment measurements.
A copy of the printed or PDF sewing pattern of the garment you plan to make. If the pattern is layered select and print out the sizes you need.
A strip of paper, wider than the pattern piece you are altering.
Sellotape, adhesive tape or a glue stick.
A ruler. Depending on the shape of your garment a Pattern Master or French Curves might be useful too.
A tabletop to lay out your pattern pieces.
Step-by-step instructions for shortening your sewing pattern
First Steps
1.
Take your measurements and decide how much length you need to add to the length of your pattern.
2.
Tip: Gather all the pieces you need to lengthen together, there’s nothing more frustrating than only altering the front pattern and then finding that the back is too short when you go to sew your garment together! And then work on one piece at a time until you are all done.
3.
Draw a line on your pattern parallel to the Length or Shorten here line, by the amount you want to shorten your pattern length by.
4.
Cut along the “Lengthen Or Shorten Here” lines on your pattern piece.
5.
Overlap your pattern, matching your lower pattern piece to the line you have drawn.
Use any guidelines on your pattern to make sure that you have aligned your pieces correctly. Often this will be a CF or CB line, if the pattern is cut on the straight grain you could also use a grainline.
Secure in place with tape.
6.
At the sides of the pattern redraw the seam lines, you might need to stick a small piece of paper behind the join so that you can blend the line smoothly. If you need to draw a curve a French Curve for a Patternmaster will help you.
You’re nearly there!
7.
Trim the paper along this line on each side, and you have your shortened pattern piece.
8.
Redraw any dart lines as shown, and you have your shortened pattern piece.
9. Next steps
Repeat the same steps for all corresponding pattern pieces, front and back. Remember to repeat the same steps for any garment facings too.
And you’ve shortened and removed length from your pattern! Time for a nice cup of tea! ☕️
Make sure that you check and refine the fit by making a muslin or toile before you sew the garment in its chosen fabric.
Happy sewing!
